August 11-12.: From Mlilwane National Park we originally planned to head straight to Mozambique, but just before the border we spotted a sign for Hlane National Park. A quick search told us that it’s the largest protected area in Eswatini. On top of that, the entrance fee and camping together still fit perfectly into our budget – so we didn’t think twice: off to the park!
Before setting out, we stocked up on some meat and sausages so that, as a farewell to the Southern African countries, we could have a proper braai. In the park’s first, so-called “show” section, we saw plenty of rhinos – which in itself was already a great experience. We even saw a nyala eating bones, which is surprising because this was already the third herbivore that we saw acting like this to suplement their diet with calcium and phosphor. Later we found out that by driving through a gate we could explore a much larger area (at reception they told us that wherever the gate is open, we’re allowed to go, and the rest is closed off). In this part we saw fewer animals, but the scenery was much more varied and green.
Unfortunately, in many parks the animals – especially elephants – become so overpopulated that they eat away everything, leaving the environment barren. We preferred the places where there were fewer animals, so you actually had to look for them, but the landscape remained lush and alive. That way it felt much less like being in a giant zoo.
All in all, we spent a wonderful afternoon in Hlane. We thought this would be our last chance to see wildlife, since in East Africa the entrance fees are extremely expensive (in many places they charge $150 a day just for the vehicle). At the time we had no idea that in Mozambique and Malawi we would discover some lesser-known parks that would end up giving us our best experiences.
We ended the evening with a braai, and at dawn we woke up early to drive down to a small lake for sunrise. There we brewed coffee, had breakfast, and watched as the animals slowly woke up around us – a beautiful, peaceful moment.
